Sueca: A Journey Through Modernist Architecture, Local History, and Artisan Chocolate

If you enjoy exploring towns rich in history, distinctive architecture, and authentic local experiences, Sueca, a medium-sized city in the Valencian province, should be on your itinerary. Just 30 minutes south of Valencia city, this charming destination offers a surprising mix of agricultural heritage, Modernist architecture, and artisan chocolate-making.

**A Taste of History**

Sueca’s name is believed to derive from the Arabic word *Suaq*, meaning “market,” reflecting its long-standing role as a center of commerce and agriculture. In the 19th century, Sueca’s economy was rooted in farming, with vast estates controlled by noble families who often lived in Valencia or elsewhere. The expansion of rice cultivation, thanks to the nearby Albufera wetlands, transformed the town’s fortunes.

By the early 20th century, many of the local peasants had transitioned from working the land to owning it, marking a significant social shift. A symbolic moment in this transformation occurred on April 22, 1922, with the marriage of Antonio Baldoví Beltrán and Teresa Cardona Burguera, uniting two of Sueca’s most prominent families.

**Modernist Architecture for the Curious Eye**

Sueca is a rewarding destination for those who appreciate Modernisme, the Valencian and Catalan take on Art Nouveau. The town is filled with elegant buildings that showcase curved facades, floral ironwork, decorative tilework, and hand-carved wood details.

Notable highlights include:

* Ateneo Sueco del Socorro, a civic building with expressive ceramic elements and an emblematic design

* Residential homes featuring stained glass, mosaic accents, and graceful balconies that line the quieter streets of the town

Unlike larger cities with crowded Modernist routes, Sueca offers a peaceful and intimate setting to discover these artistic treasures at your own pace.

**The Sweet Side of Sueca: Artisan Chocolate**

A delightful surprise awaits at the Museo del Chocolate Comes, a family-run chocolate museum that tells the story of Sueca’s chocolate-making heritage. Visitors are welcomed with a short private video presentation that shares the history of the Comes family and their traditional methods of crafting chocolate.

Inside the museum, you’ll see antique molds, tools, and packaging from earlier eras, offering a glimpse into the town’s sweet past. After the visit, the museum shop tempts with a wide variety of handmade artisan chocolates, from rich dark bars to delicate truffles made with local ingredients.

**Culture, Cuisine, and Community**

Sueca today has a population of around 27,000 and remains deeply connected to its rice-growing legacy. It is also the hometown of Joan Fuster, one of Valencia’s most respected 20th-century writers and intellectuals. His house has been turned into a museum and cultural center, offering further insight into the town’s literary and political history.

Each September, Sueca hosts the International Paella Competition, drawing chefs from around the world to compete in the art of making this iconic Valencian dish.

**Why Visit Sueca?**

Sueca is an ideal destination for those seeking:

* A culturally rich day trip from Valencia

* A walkable town with impressive Modernist architecture

* Unique culinary experiences, including artisan chocolate and traditional rice dishes

* A chance to explore authentic Valencian life away from the tourist crowds

Conclusion: With its blend of history, design, and culinary tradition, Sueca invites you to slow down and savor its many layers.

- Karla Ingleton Darocas, BA (Hons)

 

Fontilles: A Hidden Sanctuary of Healing and Hope

High in the verdant mountains behind the village of Orba, nestled within the dramatic, sun-dappled slopes of the Alicante province, lies a place unlike any other—a place of silence, serenity, and sacred history. 

This is Fontilles, a tranquil sanctuary perched in the municipality of La Vall de Laguar. For over a century, it has stood as a symbol of compassion, resilience, and enlightened care for society’s forgotten souls.

*Report by Art Historian and Educator Karla Darocas, B.A. (Hons)*  

*Copyright SpainLifestyle.com 2018* (No part of this text or accompanying photos may be reproduced)

The name Fontilles is believed to derive from the many freshwater springs that flow abundantly through the valley. Fed by the El Penyó aquifer, these springs—most notably the El Castellet—supply the land and its inhabitants with life-sustaining water. The presence of this pure mountain water lends the area a sense of renewal, as if nature itself were part of the healing process.

Encircling the Fontilles Sanatorium is a 73 hectare expanse of untouched nature—rolling hills blanketed in dense foliage, winding paths under canopies of ancient trees, and scattered picnic spots where time seems to pause. 

A stroll through the grounds is like wandering into a secret garden of contemplation. Stone statues emerge from the landscape, silently watching over grottos where cool spring water trickles into moss-lined pools. Here, among chirping birds and rustling leaves, one finds peace.

But behind this pastoral beauty lies a story of courage, tragedy, and humanitarian vision.

The origins of Fontilles trace back to 1902, when a Jesuit priest named Carlos Ferrís visited his friend, the lawyer Don Joaquín Ballester Lloret, in the village of Tormos. One evening, as they conversed, a haunting, anguished wail pierced the air from a nearby ruin. Ballester explained, with visible sorrow, that the cries came from a leprosy sufferer, abandoned and alone.

That moment changed everything.

Father Ferrís, shaken and deeply moved, soon learned of the widespread suffering caused by leprosy in the region. Entire villages had been affected. 

In 1849, the small town of Parcent—just down the road—had recorded that 60 of its 800 residents were afflicted. A local physician in Pedreguer, writing in 1879, documented 74 cases between 1810 and 1879, with 57 known deaths. As early as 1851, primitive statistics counted 286 cases. By 1878, the number had climbed to 521. The disease was not just present—it was endemic.

The stigma of leprosy was devastating. Victims were not only disfigured by the illness but ostracized by society. They were often forced to live in rags along the roadsides, beneath bridges, or hidden away in caves. Some were only visited by family members to receive a bowl of water or a scrap of food. They were denied every human dignity—unseen and unloved.

As fate would have it, Father Ferrís himself contracted a mild form of the disease. Rather than succumb to despair, he transformed his personal suffering into an unshakable mission. 

Alongside his loyal friend Ballester, he envisioned a place where leprosy patients would be treated with compassion, not condemnation. A sanctuary where they could live in dignity, receive medical care, and find community.

The pair began an ambitious campaign. Their vision included not only buildings for housing and treatment but also a massive stone wall encircling the property—a physical and symbolic gesture of both protection and sanctuary. The wall, three miles long, three meters high, and half a meter thick, was a feat of engineering and perseverance.

Yet not everyone supported this mission. Many politicians opposed the project, fearing contagion, cost, or challenging the status quo. It took seven long years of struggle before, on January 17, 1909, the gates of the *San Francisco de Borja Sanatorium Colony of Fontilles* finally opened. The first eight patients, once shunned by the world, were welcomed with open arms into a place of peace.

Fontilles continued to grow, both in purpose and prominence.

In 1931, during the rise of Spain’s Second Republic, the Society of Jesus was expelled amidst rising a resistance to clerical influence. 

The state seized Fontilles, placing it under the authority of the National Health Board and renaming it the *National Sanatorium-Leprosarium*. Despite this upheaval, improvements continued: medical staff expanded, laboratories were modernized, and new programs were introduced.

Then came the Civil War (1936–1939). As the country descended into chaos, leprosy cases surged—spurred by poor hygiene, food shortages, population displacement, and the arrival of foreign troops from endemic areas. 

When the war ended, the National Health Board returned Fontilles to its original trustees, and by 1941, the Jesuits resumed their role in its administration.

In 1947, Fontilles began offering specialized courses in the scientific study of leprosy to doctors and health workers across Spain and abroad, positioning itself as a leader in medical education. By 1968, the sanatorium had launched an outpatient program, allowing patients to live at home while receiving regular treatment at the facility.

In the 1990s, Fontilles extended its mission far beyond Spanish borders. With decades of experience, the organization began implementing health and solidarity programs in some of the world’s most affected countries. From Brazil and Nicaragua to India and Equatorial Guinea, Fontilles brought hope where it was needed most.

By 2002, Fontilles was managing projects in China, Colombia, Costa Rica, and more. And by 2005, it had achieved global recognition, contributing to international conferences and humanitarian forums. Its work now focused on three pillars: **Health, Solidarity, and Information**.

Today, Fontilles is considered one of the world’s foremost institutions for the study and treatment of leprosy. Each year, it welcomes over 70 healthcare professionals—doctors, nurses, missionaries, and social workers—who gather to learn, share, and continue the global fight against the disease. 

It stands not just as a sanatorium, but as a beacon of knowledge, healing, and above all, humanity. Fontilles remains a testament to what can be achieved when compassion triumphs over fear. 

Exclusive Private Screening * The Way*

The Way is an inspiring and visually stunning film directed by Emilio Estevez and starring Martin Sheen. 

The Missing Half of Juana la Loca’s Story—And Her Surprising Connection to Jávea

The story of Juana la Loca is one of power, betrayal, and suffering, and it extends far beyond the passionate heartbreak depicted in the film. 

Award Winning Film - Juana la Loca (2001) Español - English Subtitles

Don’t miss this chance to experience the beauty of Spanish history, culture, and romance on a big screen. Historian Karla Ingleton Darocas, BA (Hons) will be on hand to give insights and answer any questions!

When - tba

ABOUT

Juana la Loca (2001), directed by Vicente Aranda, is a gripping tale of passion, betrayal, and political intrigue, based on the dramatic life of Queen Joanna of Castile. Her obsessive love for Philip the Handsome leads to emotional turmoil amidst the power struggles of 16th-century Spain.

With stunning period costumes and breathtaking landscapes—from medieval castles to grand halls—this film transports viewers into Spain's rich cultural and historical past. A must-see for lovers of historical romance, royal intrigue, and Spain’s captivating beauty.

Goya Awards (2002): Best Actress: Pilar López de Ayala, Best Costume Design: Javier Artiñano, Best Makeup and Hairstyling: Miguel Sesé and Mercedes Guillot

REVIEW. 

**Joan the Mad / Juana la Loca**  

This is a film to be savored. Settle in and allow yourself to be transported to the world of 16th-century Spain, where every visual detail is a feast for the senses.  Karla explained all details that really helped put the storyteller into perspective. 

Watching this film was like opening a jewel box filled with treasures. From the exquisite red leather gloves to the richly embroidered gold and burgundy brocades, the luxurious fur trims, and the delicate drop pearl earrings, every element is a masterpiece. 

The opulent colour palette flows seamlessly throughout the film, creating a rich and immersive experience. Even the Andalusian horses, with their ornate saddles, move with a regal elegance as they rein up to a prancing halt.  

The cinematography is equally breathtaking. Interior scenes, whether set within the castle chambers or aboard the galleon where Joan and her mother share a poignant farewell before her departure to Flanders, are captured with striking contrasts of light and shadow. The dramatic lighting evokes the depth and intensity of classic paintings, perhaps even those found in the Prado.  

The story is deeply rooted in its historical setting. It begins gently but soon gathers momentum, becoming utterly captivating. The plot offers everything one could desire in a compelling film—intrigue, romance, betrayal, and deception. The narrator provides a guiding voice, seamlessly linking scenes and reminding the audience that this whirlwind of drama is based on real events in Spain’s monarchy.  

Philip of Habsburg, with his wild mane of hair, chiseled jaw, tight-fitting pants, and oversized codpiece, looks more like a heavy-metal rock star than a prince. If he were on stage, he could easily be mistaken for a guitarist from Whitesnake or Scorpions. My only complaint about the film is that the bedroom scenes are far too restrained. One has to rely on imagination, but I suspect Philip had much more to offer than what we were shown.  

As for Juana—was she truly mad, driven to madness, or simply madly in love? That is a question worth debating over tapas. I won’t reveal more, but kissing a decayed, rotting skull might just be a clue...

- Rhona 

Special Screening of El Cid (1961) with Expert Insights!

Spanish Historical Romanticism Painting

Introduction to Spanish Romanticism in Painting

Spanish Romanticism in painting, emerging in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, was a response to political upheaval, national identity struggles, and evolving artistic influences from Europe. Unlike the structured realism and compositions of Neoclassicism, Romanticism embraced emotion, drama, and individuality, often highlighting Spain’s historical past, cultural traditions, and exoticism. 

Several distinct movements developed, each reflecting different aspects of Spanish Romanticism.

Rococo

Immersive Journey into the Rise and Fall of Rococo in Spain! 

Step into the splendor of 18th-century Spain as we explore the captivating rise and dramatic fall of the Rococo style. 

José de Ribera

José de Ribera (1591–1652) was a master of the late Renaissance and early Baroque periods. His work is relatively easy to grasp within the context of the Baroque era, a time when the Catholic Church employed art as a powerful tool of propaganda—reminding the faithful of the saints' suffering under Roman persecution, reinforcing religious devotion, and countering the influence of Protestantism.

What stands out about Ribera is not only his command of Caravaggio’s dramatic chiaroscuro but also his unique position outside the traditional court system. Unlike court painters who were often confined to formal portraits and official commissions, Ribera worked under the Spanish rulers of Naples, granting him a broader creative range. His subjects extended far beyond tortured saints to include some of the most intriguing and unconventional themes, often rooted in gripping stories from Spanish history.